Because there are many camshafts and pushrod sets for the

HD accessory market, I frequently hear the following question:

"What is the proper procedure for adjusting the pushrods on

my bike?

The diagram at the left shows a cutaway schematic view of an

adjustable pushrod and hydraulic lifter assembly. Labels identify

some of the components. (Note that for this explanation, no

check valve is shown but it is part of the lifter).

When hydraulic lifter units are first assembled (with no pushrod

present), the compression spring pushes the hydraulic unit and

pushrod seat upwards until the pushrod seat contacts the lower

edge of the retaining ring. At this point the hydraulic unit cannot

move any further upwards. It can however move down approximately .150 inches. This downward travel is the adjustment range. In other words, the adjustment length starts at 0.0 and can be as much as .150 inches. A correctly set adjustment positions the hydraulic unit in the middle of the .150 travel range. For hydraulic lifters to function correctly, the engine oiling system must operate with at least 10 to 15 psi oil pressure. Pressurized oil will then fill the area around the compression spring. And as far as hydraulic lifters are concerned, more oil pressure will not make the lifters run better.

Pushrod adjustments may now be completed. First, lengthen the

adjuster screw by hand until it makes tight contact with the

pushrod seat in the lifter. Then, extend the adjuster screw down

(making the pushrod longer) 3 or 4 full turns. (The exact number

of turns is not critical). Andrews Products adjuster screws for

EV80 and T88 pushrods are manufactured with (5/16 x 32)

threads so 3 turns will extend the pushrod length by .093 inches.

(3 x 1/32 = .093 inches). Each turn of the adjuster screw

changes the pushrod length by .032 inches.

The pushrod seat and hydraulic unit will now operate in a correct

position and will move up or down to compensate for engine

expansion due to warming up or cooling down of the engine. As

long as the hydraulic unit and pushrod seat can move up and

down and not touch the upper retaining ring or "bottom out" during

operation, the pushrod length has been correctly set and the

lifters will function normally.

             S/E Push Rod Adjustment

1. Remove stock pushrods using a bolt cutter.

2. Place the motorcycle on a hydraulic center stand with the rear wheel raised off the ground. Remove spark plugs

3. With transmission in gear use rear wheel to turn engine over until both front cylinder tappets are at their lowest point.

4. Replace O-rings, lower pushrod cover and spring cover keeper with new components supplied in kit.

5. See Figure 1. Loosen locknut on all of the pushrods and adjust them to their shortest length.

NOTE

pushrods with the Thinner "Finished" area on the tubes must be

installed to the Intake location on the cylinders; pushrods with

the Thicker "Finished" area on the tubes are slightly longer and

must be installed to the Exhaust locations on the cylinders.

6. Install pushrods with pushrod covers. Be sure adjuster end

of pushrod is down and ball end of adjuster is in tappet

socket.

7. If hydraulic tappets are used, adjust pushrods following

procedure A. With solid tappets, follow procedure B.

NOTE

Pushrod adjustment must be made with engine cold.

                             Hydraulic Tappets

1  Adjust pushrod length to zero clearance.

2  With the pushrod tube kept from rotating

with a 1/2 inch or adjustable wrench, slowly turn

the adjusting screw with a 5/16 in. wrench, 2-1/2 complete

turns counter clockwise (lengthening the

pushrod) as viewed from the bottom. (You may wish

to mark adjuster to aid in counting turns.)

3  Hold adjusting screw and tighten locknut with 1/2 in.

open end wrench against the pushrod tube. If

pushrod turns with locknut use three open end

wrenches, one to hold the pushrod tube, one to hold

adjusting screw and one to turn locknut.

Wait ten minutes before turning engine over after adjustingfront or rear cylinder pushrods. This wait allows tappets

to bleed down and prevents bending pushrods or

valves. Pushrods should turn freely and valves must be on

their seats (closed) before turning over engine.

4  Wait ten minutes. With transmission in gear, use rear

wheel to turn engine over until both rear cylinder tappets

are at their lowest position.

5  Repeat steps 4 through 3A for the rear cylinder.

6  Install pushrod spring cap retainers on pushrod covers.

Install spark plugs and return transmission to neutral.

7  Connect battery cables.

Always connect the positive battery cable first. If the positivecable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion

which could result in death or serious injury.

                            Solid Tappets

1  Turn adjusting screw on pushrod until zero clearance

exists in valve train. Pushrod should turn with no drag

and no up and down "shake."

2  Hold adjusting screw and tighten locknut with 1/2 in.

open end wrench against the pushrod tube. If

pushrod turns with locknut use three open end

wrenches, one to hold the pushrod tube, one to hold

adjusting screw and one to turn locknut.

3  With transmission in gear, use rear wheel to turn

engine over until both rear cylinder tappets are at their

lowest position.

4  Repeat steps 4 through 2B for the rear cylinder.

5  Install pushrod spring cap retainers on pushrod covers.

Install spark plugs and return transmission to

neutral.

6  Connect battery cables.